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Myanmar: The Whispering Land Despite rich gem resources, this troubled country remains in despair by Robert Weldon, G.G., Senior Writer/Gemstones, Professional Jeweler If gemologists were assigned to choose one exotic country with the world’s choicest colored gemstones, the answer inevitably would be Myanmar, better known in gemological circles as Burma, its old name. “Burmese” rubies are the standard by which any ruby is judged, also the case with top-quality sapphire, spinel, peridot and jadeite jade. However, the social and political realities of today’s Myanmar threaten to disrupt this aura – and the sale of colored gemstone jewelry. The threat: educated consumers who are increasingly concerned about buying gems that directly or indirectly support unsavory regimes, wars or terrorists. Various dictatorships have maintained control over Myanmar’s resources, including gems, for nearly 50 years, though some private mining is allowed. While Myanmar’s junta organizes gem auctions in Yangon, formerly Rangoon, most gems slip out of the country’s borders through smuggling.
Myanmar’s military rulers also keep under house arrest Aung San Suu Kyi, a political rival who was elected leader of the country in 1990 but has not been allowed to serve. Suu Kyi was briefly allowed to travel freely within Myanmar a few years ago, but was arrested again in 2003 after an ambush of her motorcade in which some supporters were killed and she was injured. In March, the United Nations honored Suu Kyi for her efforts to promote democracy in Myanmar. She also is the world’s only incarcerated Nobel Peace Prize recipient. During his administration, President Clinton awarded Suu Kyi with the Presidential Medal of Freedom in absentia. “She has seen her supporters beaten, tortured and killed, yet she has never responded to hatred and violence in kind,” Clinton remarked. “All she has ever asked for is peaceful dialogue. The only weapons the Burmese people have are the words of reason and the example of this astonishingly brave woman.” The European Union recently stepped up its criticism of Myanmar and has threatened to impose further economic sanctions and withdraw economic aid if the military regime doesn’t take steps toward embracing democracy. Significantly, neighbors in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations recently warned Myanmar it risks forfeiting its expected chairmanship of ASEAN in 2006 if political reforms aren’t made. Myanmar appears to have dug in its heels under the pressure. Its current junta was reduced to two main leaders after a recent purge. The purged leader was viewed in the military hierarchy as having ties too close to Suu Kyi and for hinting to the world that democratic changes were imminent.
When the International Colored Gemstone Association announced a gem tour to Myanmar’s famous corundum and spinel locality of Mogok after its biennial congress in Thailand in February, the choice seemed appropriate given Thailand’s proximity and deep links to Myanmar’s gemstone riches. ICA says the trip was an educational opportunity, not a business or buying trip. Gem dealers who criticize the U.S. sanctions say they deprive Myanmar’s citizens of economic growth needed to fuel an eventual democracy. They call the policy duplicitous because it punishes Myanmar while the U.S. runs trade deficits with more repressive regimes such as China. In fact, in a worrisome development for the trade, China’s relations with Myanmar have expanded greatly since the sanctions. As the ICA tour arrived in Myanmar from Bangkok, the military regime suddenly rescinded its offer to allow a visit to Mogok – without apology or explanation. Instead, the tour visited Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan. Tour members were disappointed at the lack of a gemstone focus but accepted the situation without rancor.
At daybreak, wisps of wood smoke hung low between the ancient Pagodas of Bagan. The rising sun flashed golden light on the gilded pagodas and tinged brick ones with crimson. The beauty of the scene was palpable. Sensing this, the men and women who labor daily at this tourist attraction gathered at its markets, where steaming tea brewed on wood-burning stoves. A tourist in western garb sipped tea and joined the laborers as they readied for the day. Glances from his tea companions turned to conversation in English. One asked in a conspiratorial whisper, “Do you like Myanmar?” “I love it,” the tourist said. “We have no opportunities here,” the whisperer countered. “We have little hope.” For the tourist, who asked not to be identified, it was a jarring glimpse into daily reality for the people of Myanmar. The topic arose also when a woman atop an ancient pagoda glanced nervously in various directions and then spoke in a fierce undertone, saying the world has largely forgotten her country, except for the U.S. She added that tourists are fed a wrong impression. “If The Lady cannot succeed in her quiet struggle against the junta, we will never make it,” she said. “The Lady” is how Myanmar’s people refer to imprisoned leader Suu Kyi, who holds such sway over the populace that the three military men she trounced in the 1990 elections have let her out in public only on rare occasions. Suu Kyi remains a proponent of non-violent change, a Gandhi-esque figure, growing more determined in seeing a democratic future for Myanmar as the years slip by. |
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© copyright of Article and Images by Robert Weldon, Except where noted.
Titel Photos captions: 1. Burmese ruby 7.18-ct. gem from Mogok, 2. Wisps of fog and smoke lie low in the early morning at the archaeological wonder of Bagan, where temples date to the 9th century. |
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© Created by ICA Gem Bureau Idar-Oberstein |
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