— The picturesque and quaint German twin-city of Idar-Oberstein, some 90 miles south of Frankfurt, is a gem cutting and trading center with a long and illustrious history. Rich in agate and jasper deposits, Roman invaders found precious stones in the area more than 2,000 years ago, and gems continued to be found there until not too long ago.

The gemstone region around Idar-Oberstein is home to more than 500 businesses in the gem and jewelry trade. The city in particular has been known for the past 500 years as the place to find top quality, superior craftsmanship, and the unique and unusual in the way of gemstones — all of which are celebrated at the Intergem trade fair held there every October for the past 19 years.



A great example of what makes this area so special is in the works of Manfred Wild of Emil Becker, Kirschweiler. A 40-year veteran, Wild creates fantasy out of precious gems and metals. Every Intergem he unveils an object fit for a king, and 2003 was no exception in a vase carved from a piece of citrine weighing 150 pounds. He filled it with yarrow in 8 carats of white opal flowers carved with 17 jade leaves, and Berry of the Mountain-ash in 434 carats of red coral and as many black onyx, 275 jade leaves, and 18-karat gold accents. Wild quips that its price is that of a “nice villa”. His whimsical collection includes wildlife, plants, musical instruments, and candy and cookies in petrified palm wood and jasper that would fool the most avid sweet tooth.

It’s difficult to identify trends at a show that features such specialized and unique gem vendors. But gem houses that cover the spectrum, like ICA-member Wild & Petsch of Idar-Oberstein say a broad range of gems are in fashion — from pastel colors to rich shades in pink, red, orange, blue, and green. The most popular gems in this color palette include aquamarine and other beryls; various tourmalines, garnets and quartz; blue and fancy sapphire; peridot; chalcedony; iolite; moonstone; and coral.

The trend in gemstones is for bright, clear colors no matter what the shade — and quality sells, report gem traders. In addition to tourmalines and beryls, fiery orange gems are popular in garnet and opal.

According to ICA member Jürgen Schütz, president of Emil Weis Opals, Idar-Oberstein, jewelry designers are showcasing stones like Mexican fire opal in custom pieces that are bold in color combinations.

Neon blue is equally on fire, as ICA member Constantin Wild, president of Constantin Wild, Idar-Oberstein, is finding with heated tourmaline from Nigeria that captures the glamour inspired by the famed Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline. “It’s not as electric as the original Paraiba, but it’s still an eye-catcher,” he says.

Boulder opal also is trending among jewelers, adds Charles Alsen, president of Opal Country, Hohenaspe, Germany, noting how more people have accepted that there’s matrix (part of the host rock) face up in the gemstone and discovered the uniqueness it has to offer in jewelry design. Considering its rarity, alexandrite is popular, too. “More consumers are fascinated by its mystic color change,” explains ICA member Rolf Goerlitz, president of Rolf Goerlitz, Idar-Oberstein. "I wouldn’t say it's a hot seller to the broad public, but it will always be sought after by the sophisticated consumer."

Most certainly, fine gem beads abound and continue to capture the imagination. “Gem beads are in a renaissance,” explains Peter Rohm president of the fashion-forward firm and ICA member, Rohm, of Linz, Austria.



“The design options are endless with the hundreds of stone types and different shapes available. Gem beads are satisfying both the trends toward individualism and back to nature. ” Some of the exciting combinations Rohm features include rose quartz with light amethyst and milky aquamarine; peridot with lemon citrine; rhodocrosite with light-blue beryl and lapis; and yellow amber with aragonite and brown jasper. Coral from the Mediterranean and Pacific Seas will also be important.

In the last decade, the region surrounding Idar-Oberstein has become a hotbed for jewelry designers — students and graduates of the prominent gemstone and jewelry design department at the local University of Applied Sciences. The school attracts budding artists worldwide, and many remain in the area to take advantage of its resources.

The range of styles is very diverse, as seen in a consortium of local designers who market together called Edelform.

Take Esther Fuchs — her jewelry is crafted in silver, often blackened and with 18-karat gold, and set with gems like fire opal, coral and pearl in designs that look both futuristic and ancient.



Then there’s Diane Dille who hand knits silver chain, weaving in gems like aquamarine, carnelian and amethyst, or making rings that hug bold gemstones like turtleneck sweaters.



While Bozica Becker plays with structure in textured silver that is often set with gems showing interesting inclusions.



A highlight at Intergem 2003 was a jewelry fashion show orchestrated by Markus Ehrhard, an award-winning fashion and accessories designer and plumasier based in Allenbach, Germany. Ehrhard, with a family history in the Idar-Oberstein gem trade, topped models in little black dresses, adorned by regional jewels, with his feathered headpieces — some set with gems including one of the world’s largest pearls (at 19.6mm from the China-Center, Düsseldorf, Germany).

From Manfred Wild’s gemmy treats to Markus Ehrhard’s bejeweled hats and everything in between, the artists of this region generate amazing works of art that will make you think differently about gemstones.